Pan’s Labyrinth
While not part of the 1980’s fantasy collection that I grew up with, Pan’s Labyrinth is still a favorite of mine. This dark and beautiful fairy tale follows the quest of an 11-year-old heroine living in two worlds: Franco’s Spain, and the dreamy/sometimes nightmarish underworld of director Guillermo Del Toro’s imagination. Despite the subtitles, which can still (frustratingly) be an obstacle for commercial success, I remember the film doing very well in theaters. And, boy did it achieve critical acclaim.
In gloomy times (ahem, 2020), I like to return to Pan’s Labyrinth to gain a bit of perspective. In addition to the twisted creatures Ofelia encounters in the fantasy reality, the history that wraps around Ofelia’s magical adventure is fascinating. Franco’s ascendency to power and ensuing dictatorship were horrific for most of Spain’s population, and as in any war, the poor in the cities and in the countryside suffered. Ofelia’s experiences with and response to the various atrocities she witnesses resonate– as an adult, I often wish I could wish myself into a fairy tale realm where I had the magical agency to more effectively combat the “evil forces” of “the real world” (quotations applied intentionally).
I’d considered saving Pan’s Labyrinth for Halloween because it’s … pretty terrifying at times. But I’ve had Guillermo Del Toro on the brain, and I’ve also been waiting for the chance to revisit past culinary adventures in Spain. I’ve endeavored to acknowledge both the fantastical elements of Pan’s Labyrinth in this movie menu, while also staying true to the time period in which the film is set– and subsequently I’ve learned a ton about some of my favorite recipes and ingredients from that part of the world.
Enjoy, and remember to be wary of fauns.
The Movie
The Menu
Sangria is of course a classic wine punch from Spain-- this recipe includes pomegranate, a fruit often associated with the Underworld. Mix all ingredients together and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes before adding ice. Note, if you have round molds for your ice cubes, you can go for that grotesque Pale Man eyeball aesthetic... If you don't have a Rioja on hand, here is a handy list of alternatives that you might enjoy. And, if serving kiddos, you can always forgo the brandy and wine for grape juice and seltzer! This recipe is inspired by an apparently very famous recipe, which in turn is inspired by Marbella-- a picturesque town on the southern coast of Spain. Normally you would use chicken and not pork, but at the time of Franco's regime both pork and olives were an extreme luxury (hence the General's "larder" scene in Pan's Labyrinth). It's the most delicious pork tenderloin recipe I've ever had, no exaggeration. Combine olive oil, wine, vinegar, dates, brown sugar, capers and brine, olives, garlic, bay leaves, oregano, paprika. Pour over pork tenderloin in a Ziploc bag, sealing and pressing as much air out of the bag as possible. Allow the pork to marinate overnight for the best flavor results. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a 12" skillet over medium-high. Cook pork, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over, about a minute per side. Note, the sugar in the marinade will cause the pork to develop a wonderfully caramelized crust as it sears—this crust will seal in flavor. I used dates because I had them, but you can opt for the traditional prunes, or even substitute raisins. During Spain's "hungry years", much of the poorer population made do with the wealthy's leavings, including potato peels. But patatas bravas, you have met your match in this incredibly simple yet delicious recipe. And such a nice and crunchy fairy wing texture... Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Scatter your potato peels onto a sil pat lined baking sheet. Toss with oil and spices. Bake for 15 minutes until blistered and crisp. Serve with allioli. Allioli is basically the Spanish version of Aioli-- and is super easy to make! You can find the recipe here. Another amazing recipe that was necessary in times of hardship, gachas is basically just a cheeseless beschamel with a custard-y texture that can be made savory or sweet. Here I've obviously gone the sweet route and added both ginger (a visual relative of the creepy baby mandrake root from the film) and sugared migas (or fried bread "crumbs", which carry their own historical significance). First, the migas-- toss your bread crumbs in a skillet with 1 tbsp of olive oil. Fry until golden brown over medium heat. Drain on a towel and lightly toss with sugar while still hot. Set aside. Next, assemble your Gachas Dulces ingredients-- ginger, lemon, cinnamon, flour, sugar. Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil in a small saucepan over medium low heat and add flour to create a roux. Stir about a minute until raw flour smell dissapates, then quickly add the rest of your sugar, lemon zest, and ginger, stirring constantly to prevent your roux from burning. Reduce heat to low. Add cinnamon stick followed by your milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Simmer on low heat as your Gachas Dulces thickens to a porridge-like consistency. Remove cinnamon stick and serve warm, topped with migas and a healthy sprinkling of cinnamon.
Pomegranate Sangria
Ingredients
Instructions
Notes
Pork Marbella
Ingredients
Instructions
Place a rack in the center of your oven; preheat to 325°. Remove pork from marinade (don’t throw the marinade away!) and pat dry; allow the pork to come to room temperature for 5-10 minutes.
Pour reserved marinade over pork and transfer pan to oven. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of tenderloin registers 145°, roughly 30 minutes.
Transfer giant monster appendage/pork tenderloin to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes to let the juices redistribute. Return pan with marinade to medium heat and cook, swirling occasionally, until slightly reduced, 3–5 minutes. Stir in parsley.
In a separate pan, quickly toss torn chard with the last 1 tsp of olive oil until just wilted. 
Slice tenderloin crosswise against the grain. Transfer to a platter with the chard, and spoon pan sauce over.
Notes
Potato Peel Crisps with Allioli
Ingredients
Instructions
Notes
Gachas Dulces with Migas
Ingredients
Instructions
Epilogue
Like I said, this movie is a little gruesome. Be careful with the kiddos. The Pale Man is no joke.
For more menus, check out my movie directory here!