All the talk about Spring last week made me want to revisit The Secret Garden (not the crap adaptation that recently came out with Colin Firth, the one that Francis Ford Coppola EP’d in 1993). While my current habitat is much more like India than …
After twenty years (!!!), Almost Famous is still on my list of all time favorites. What do I like about this movie? To begin with… everything. An autobiographical showcase of director Cameron Crowe’s misspent youth, Almost Famous focuses on the experiences of a fifteen year …
While not part of the 1980’s fantasy collection that I grew up with, Pan’s Labyrinth is still a favorite. This dark and beautiful fairy tale follows the quest of an 11-year-old heroine living in two worlds: Franco’s Spain, and the dreamy/sometimes nightmarish underworld of director Guillermo Del Toro’s imagination. Despite the subtitles, which can still (frustratingly) be an obstacle for commercial success, I remember the film doing very well in theaters. And, appropriately, it received a hell of a lot of critical acclaim.
In gloomy times (ahem, 2020), I like to return to Pan’s Labyrinth to gain a bit of perspective. In addition to the twisted creatures Ofelia encounters in the fantasy reality, the history that wraps around Ofelia’s magical adventure is fascinatingly grim. Franco’s ascendency to power and ensuing dictatorship were horrific for most of Spain’s population, and the poor in the cities and in the countryside suffered from violence and starvation. As an adult, I often wish I could find my way into a fairy tale realm where I had the magical agency to combat the horrors of the real world– Ofelia’s escapist response to the horrors of her own “real world” is, at the VERY least, empathetic (not to mention imaginatively genius and poignant).
I’d considered saving Pan’s Labyrinth for Halloween because it’s … gd terrifying. But I’ve had Guillermo Del Toro on the brain, and I’ve also been waiting for the chance to revisit past culinary adventures in Spain. I’ve endeavored to stay true to the time period in which the film is set, and have subsequently learned a ton about some of my favorite recipes/ingredients from that part of the world. So enjoy, and remember– be wary of fauns.
The Movie
The Menu
Pomegranate Sangria
Yield: 4 Servings
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 10 minutes
An Underworldlyy twist on classic Spanish wine cocktail.
Ingredients
1 bottle Spanish Red Wine (I like Rioja for this recipe)
1/3 cup Brandy
2 Oranges, juiced (about 1/2 cup)
Pomegranate Arils (1/2 cup)
Pomegranate Juice (1/2 cup)
3 tsp Brown Sugar
A couple of generous dashes of orange bitters
Instructions
Mix all ingredients together and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes before adding ice.
Note, if you have round molds for your ice cubes, you can go for that grotesque Pale Man eyeball aesthetic...
Notes
If you don't have a Rioja on hand, here is a handy list of alternatives that you might enjoy. And, if serving kiddos, you can always forgo the brandy and wine for grape juice and seltzer!
Pork Marbella
Yield: 3-4 Servings
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Additional Time: 1 day
Total Time: 1 day55 minutes
This dish is inspired by an apparently very famous recipe, which in turn is inspired by Marbella-- a picturesque town on the southern coast of Spain. Normally you would use chicken instead of pork, but at the time of Franco's regime both pork and olives were an extreme luxury (hence the General's "larder" scene in Pan's Labyrinth).
It's the most delicious pork tenderloin recipe I've ever had, no exaggeration.
Ingredients
1 1lb pork tenderloin
3 tbsp Olive oil + 1 tbsp + 1 tsp
½ cup dry white wine
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
¼ cup chopped dried dates
1 tsp light brown sugar
1 tbsp capers
½ tbsp caper brine
¼ cup pitted Spanish green olives
2 garlic cloves
1 bay leaf
½ tbsp dried oregano
½ tsp Paprika
2 cups Rainbow chard
1 tbsp Parsley, roughly torn
Instructions
Combine olive oil, wine, vinegar, dates, brown sugar, capers and brine, olives, garlic, bay leaves, oregano, paprika.
Pour over pork tenderloin in a Ziploc bag, sealing and pressing as much air out of the bag as possible. Allow the pork to marinate overnight for the best flavor results.
Place a rack in the center of your oven; preheat to 325°. Remove pork from marinade (don’t throw the marinade away!) and pat dry; allow the pork to come to room temperature for 5-10 minutes.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a 12" skillet over medium-high. Cook pork, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over, about a minute per side. Note, the sugar in the marinade will cause the pork to develop a wonderfully caramelized crust as it sears—this crust will seal in flavor.
Pour reserved marinade over pork and transfer pan to oven. Bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of tenderloin registers 145°, roughly 30 minutes.
Transfer giant monster appendage/pork tenderloin to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes to let the juices redistribute. Return pan with marinade to medium heat and cook, swirling occasionally, until slightly reduced, 3–5 minutes. Stir in parsley.
In a separate pan, quickly toss torn chard with the last 1 tsp of olive oil until just wilted.
Slice tenderloin crosswise against the grain. Transfer to a platter with the chard, and spoon pan sauce over.
Notes
I used dates because I had them, but you can opt for the traditional prunes, or even substitute raisins.
Potato Peel Crisps with Allioli
Yield: 2 Servings
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes
During Spain's "hungry years", much of the poorer population made do with the wealthy's leavings, including potato peels. But patatas bravas, you have met your match in this incredibly simple yet delicious recipe. And such a nice and crunchy fairy wing texture...
Ingredients
1/2 cup Allioli (see "On the Side" recipe)
2 cups Mixed Potato Peels
1 tsp Olive Oil
1/4 tsp Paprika
1/8 tsp Cayenne
1/8 tsp Cumin
1/4 tsp Salt
1/8 tsp Pepper
Instructions
Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.
Scatter your potato peels onto a sil pat lined baking sheet. Toss with oil and spices.
Bake for 15 minutes until blistered and crisp. Serve with allioli.
Notes
Allioli is basically the Spanish version of Aioli-- and is super easy to make! You can find the recipe here.
Gachas Dulces with Migas
Yield: 2 Servings
Another amazing recipe that was necessary in times of hardship, gachas is basically just a cheeseless beschamel with a custard-y texture that can be made savory or sweet. Here I've obviously gone the sweet route and added both ginger (a visual relative of the creepy baby mandrake root) and sugared migas (or fried bread "crumbs", which have their own historical significance).
Ingredients
¼ cup olive oil + 1 tbsp
½ cup bread cubes
1/3 cup all purpose flour
3 tbsp sugar + 1 tsp
¼ tsp lemon zest
1 tsp ginger
2 cups whole milk
1 cinnamon stick
¼ tsp cinnamon powder
Instructions
First, the migas-- toss your bread crumbs in a skillet with 1 tbsp of olive oil. Fry until golden brown over medium heat. Drain on a towel and lightly toss with sugar while still hot. Set aside.
Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil in a small saucepan over medium low heat and add flour to create a roux. Stir about a minute until raw flour smell dissapates, then quickly add the rest of your sugar, lemon zest, and ginger, stirring constantly to prevent your roux from burning. Reduce heat to low.
Add cinnamon stick followed by your milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Simmer on low heat as your Gachas Dulces thickens to a porridge-like consistency.
Remove cinnamon stick and serve warm, topped with migas and a healthy sprinkling of cinnamon.
Epilogue
Like I said, this movie is a little gruesome. Be careful with the kiddos. The Pale Man is no joke.